Travel in Patagonia is slow and unpredictable, and getting a bus out of Ushuaia requires that you book your ticket in advance, directly from the agencies. You cannot book online. We were stranded in Ushuaia for several days waiting for a bus to Puntas Arenas (12 hours).
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What happens to the brain in nature and the wilderness? From my window seat, I could see the endless fields of snow-capped mountain peaks receding into the distance. Like velvet ripples on an ice-cream cake.